Sunday, July 19, 2015

farewell Chennai

Today, my last day here, began with a fun and delicious brunch at the hotel with all who remained after yesterday's performance.
The gracious hosts

Savita with her grandfathers

Joyzna's parents

Savita earned many blessings and rave reviews from all corners, including an article in the newspaper.  It really was an honor to be here--an an inspiration... Savita taught me a pose (who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks?)


After brunch, we had tea with a composer who was holding class in his living room as we discussed Savita's performance.  And, then, we were off to Amethyst for a taste of the British styling of old Madras before heading to the Potarazu home for my favorite meal of the week--sitting around the family table with both sets of grandparents, Joyzna's brother, and the four Potarazus.  I am sad to go, but this was an incredible week that has planted a seed of academic and spiritual interest in India as well as deepened an already wonderful bond with Savita.  


love!




the big day!

People in the audience for Savita's performance included several dance critics, composers, and world famous dancers as well as Mahatma Gandhi's grandson.  Pressure was high, but all of her dedication and hard work paid off in a flawless, graceful performance of seven of the hardest dances in the tradition,  Many who perform the Ragaprevasam perform two difficult pieces and five easier ones; not Savita!

Please watch her performance here:
www.avlive.in/savita

Getting ready






Savita's art show




During



Gopalkrishna Gandhi in foreground and Sreedhar ib background


After!







Saturday, July 18, 2015

journey within a journey (due to technical difficulties, there are two posts close together so look for the next as well!)

There are many temples in southern India, but there are also churches and mosques.  Yesterday,  I visited a striking Catholic Church storied to be one of the first places to which Christianity spread. St. Thomas the Apostle martyred himself in the year 72 after 22 years in India (thus, his arrival in 50ce marks the "beginning" of the spread of Christianity).  We saw the stone carving he made and on which he bled once killed.  Miraculously, the stone produced blood every year until the Portuguese arrived in the late 15th century.  While I could not photograph it (or the relics of St. Thomas' body), I can say it was really beautiful...a cross with a dove on top, now well worn.  The church sits atop a mountain and the steps leading to it were steep.  About 2/3 of the way to the top, we encountered a pilgrim prostrating herself by crawling her way to through the (very spread out) stations of the cross. I did not photograph her or the sacred places, but I did meet a man who invited me into his home, which was beautiful, and snapped a shot of him in front of his house.








  



After that thought-provoking visit, we drove about 45 km south of Chennai to Kancheepurim, or Temple City.  When I asked why the there were so many temples there, the driver explained:  "because it is temple city."  Gotcha!  In the temple, there grows a grafting from a 3,000 year old mango tree.  People prayed to the tree and the petrified chunk from its trunk that is housed in a glass case.  The signs were all in Hindi, so I am not sure what makes the mango tree so special (or why it has been worshipped for so long).



mom and I bonded over this beautiful 11-month old

a peacock for Savita


photo buddy--Alejo


After a visit to the mysterious mango tree, we visited a saree weaving center with a model loom and hundreds of patterns and thousands upon thousands of silk sarees!









The last stop was actually the focus of our day--Mahabalipuram.  About three hours drive from Chennai, this ancient sea town was a bustling port in the age of Ptolemy.  What draws people is a constellation of open-air sanctuaries carved from stone.  First we went to the Shore Temple, which is beautiful and offers insight from the past and present because many Indians take vacation to come and see the Shore Temple.  It looks like one of the "crazies" sand castles John and the kids make at the water line (in that it is weathered by water and time).  A short distance away are rathas (temples in the shape of chariots) and cave temples.  The rock formations in and around these temples are stunning.  I saw one with a mighty crimp and another that was a glorious boulder (set, however, against the setting sun so hard to get a good pic).  The place is ancient and beautiful (and offered an amazing, welcome breeze from the sea), but its real beauty seemed to be in the joyful, relaxed mood of vacationing Indians who went to Mahabalipuram to honor their culture.

















Thursday, July 16, 2015

the love of one's heart

Savita performed all seven dances today in a dress rehearsal at the prestigious Music Academy in Chennai.  She has spent years preparing for this event:  dancing through stress, pain, drama, and distance...all while completing a Sidwell education, starting an art NGO, and living a life of compassion.  Before driving to the Academy, I enjoyed a breakfast with Sreedhar--Savita's proud papa--who explained that "it is not just about dance, but life."  One must apply a dedicated effort to "find the love of one's heart." Savita has accomplished this!  While only a few perform a Rangapravesam, no one among even this already select group has made a documentary and prepared an exhibition of paintings while preparing for her debut.  Savita painted an abstract image for each of her seven dances; they will hang gallery-style in the foyer of the Music Academy on Saturday.  Additionally, she reached out to a school for under-privileged children and an arts college in Chennai to make a documentary called "Art Knows no Boundaries."  It is beautiful (I will post after Saturday July18th so check back :)  My day closed with an impromptu gathering with Amama (Savita's maternal grandmother) and her friends, sisters, and cousins.  Sitting in their silk saris, colorful and elegant, the women explained the closeness with which they have shared their lives together.   Conversations unfolded around me and, in the midst, two of the women began to sing hymns in Hindi.   Like the hymn in Savita's film, those they sang this evening were about peace.  I felt in the moment generations of a devotion to art, family, and friendship and was able, as a result, to better understand Savita's dances--especially the one already my favorite (it begins with Savita in a pose that portrays the symbol of om).  







Deepika massaging S's foot during a 2-minute break



done!

Deepika, Sreedhar, Savita (need mama bear too in next shot!)